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Francisco Albuquerque

«A good winemaker should be someone who loves life»

PMmedia Adv.
He won the prestigious International Wine and Spirit Competition Winemaker of the Year for Fortified Wines award in 2006, 2007 and 2008, as well as the Len Evans Trophy in 2007. His CV is a rollcall of distinctions. In 2012 he was voted Winemaker of the Year 2011 for Fortified Wines in Portugal and in 2014 he won the Winemaker of the Year 2013 in Portugal award. Francisco Albuquerque is, for all these reasons, one of the finest ambassadors of Madeira wine, a connoisseur, like few others, of the island’s characteristics, wisdom that he brings to his vineyards. Born on the island, he is part of Blandy’s (Madeira Wine Company), where he is director of winemaking and administrator responsible for its fortified wines, but also for the Madeiran table wines bottled under the Atlantis name, one of the most recent ventures in the archipelago’s production.
Academically, he has produced and collaborated on several scientific articles in this area. His experience led to him being asked in 2018 to validate the oldest wine collection on the island, discovered during the refurbishment of Liberty Hall Museum, in the United States.
Academically, he has produced and collaborated on several scientific articles in this area. His experience led to him being asked in 2018 to validate the oldest wine collection on the island, discovered during the refurbishment of Liberty Hall Museum, in the United States.
But it was years earlier that he was paid the complement that best sums up a unanimous opinion. The editor and owner of a Danish wine magazine Vinbladet, Peter Winding, said of the reputed winemaker, even before handing him the distinction as Winemaker of the Year 2014: «He is the supreme master of blends. He is the magician, surrounded by casks, in his magnificent Madeira Wine temple. His magic formula, his accuracy for tasting, spreads throughout and for generations to come.» 

When, how and why did you start working at Blandy’s? 
I undertook my studies and specialisation in Santarém. So, I was living in Lisbon for five years. I returned to the island in 1988, with the objective of renovating the family farm, «Quinta do Arco de São Jorge», which belonged to my grandfather, where we always did our grape harvest. In the meantime, I joined the veterinary services of the Regional Government. After the setback of going to the bank and being offered interest of more than 27%, I gave up and decided that I would go to Australia to work. At the beginning of 1990, when I already had the papers to emigrate, I received an invitation from António Serra Alegra, the general manager at the time, to undertake a professional internship at Blandy’s, in winemaking and quality control. I accepted and made the first vintage of 1990 in the Douro with the Symington, which, in 1989, had acquired a majority stake in Blandy’s. Why I accepted, had to do with the credibility of the group and the company, as well as the project they had, which was extremely alluring. In the Symington Group, and with my mentor António Serôdio, I had to learn very quickly, very carefully and above all else with great humility. The 1990 vintage itself, one of the greatest ever, put me to the test, physically and mentally, successfully applying the little knowledge I had acquired. I was proud and very grateful when I was told that I would be employed at Blandy’s. 

What sets a good winemaker apart? 
They must be a careful and thorough person, up-to-date, with some general knowledge and humanism, naturally with trained and refined senses, who understands what they are doing and for whom, respecting the traditions and terroirs where they work. They must be innovative through knowledge and, for this, have some scientific side to them. They must also be someone who loves life and living without excess.

What has the experience of being the director and winemaker of Madeira Wine Company been like?
It has been a very positive experience, of continuous learning, as in winemaking, adding solitary moments of reflection for decisions.

What was it like for you to receive the awards for best winemaker of the year in 2006, 2007 and 2008? 
A great joy, huge pride, especially for the company and the whole team. It was the recognition that we were on the right track towards making great wines.

«It has been a very positive experience, of continuous learning, as in winemaking, adding solitary moments of reflection for decisions»

Which moment or moments have marked you most within the company over these years? 
Our move from the centre of Funchal to the Zona Franca do Caniçal, with the logistics of transporting more than two thousand 650-litre casks, machines, tanks and more than 45 wooden vats with a capacity of more than 20,000 litres, during the early hours of the morning with a police escort. A great challenge. Then the recognition of having obtained the highest quality level from the BRC A+ (British Retail Consortium) in the new facilities.

How many countries does Madeira wine reach today? 
Around 49.

What are the professional goals of Madeira’s number one winemaker for the next few years? 
To leave a legacy, in our stock, of high-quality wines for future generations, in order to keep the company at the top, just as I received it after seven generations. And  trying to understand, even more, about the kinetics of ageing of our wines by launching more scientific projects. 

How would you describe Madeira wine? 
Unique, indestructible and unforgettably exuberant.

Which is the best Madeira wine you have tasted so far? 
One of the best, without doubt, my family’s Borges Terrantez 1790. It would be rather limiting to name just one... I would add Blandy’s Boal Solera 1864 and Blandy’s Boal 1920.



 
Chris Blandy, left; Francisco Albuquerque, on the right